New Pajamas
A Quick Neckband Tutorial
One of the more common problems that I’ve seen beginning seamstresses encounter is how to attach the neckband. But humans tend to get better with practice. And while there are many neckband tutorials out there, finding the one that works for you is a matter of knowing how you learn. Hopefully this tutorial will help some of you.
Since we’re focusing on the neckband today we’ll run through the garment construction quickly. I’m using the Kids Leggings from Halla and the Ragamuffin Raglan from Ragamuffin Patterns, with cotton jersey fabric from Hobby Lobby for this set.
The pants and shirt set is for Miss Mimi and the gown is for Miss Elly (for the gown I just lowered the hem of the raglan until it was as long as she wanted). Cut out the garment pieces according to the pattern instructions.
Most patterns will give you the measurements for the neckband, but if you have adjusted the neckline (to be higher or lower), or if you can’t find the measurements on your instructions, you will measure the length of the neckline. It’s easier for me to leave the pieces folded double the number. The front neckline is 10” and the back neckline is 8”, the whole neckline is 18”. You take the final measurement and multiply it by approx. .85%, depending on how stretchy your fabric is (if it’s really stretchy you want it smaller .80%, if it’s not that stretchy you need it a little longer .90%) I hate math, so I’ve figured out that you subtract approx. 2-3 inches from the whole neckline. So for this shirt I cut a rectangle 16”x 2”.
The first thing I do on any garment is to sew the short edges of the neckband together and set it aside for later. I usually save the neckband (and zippers) for last, unless I have to hem. Then that’s the last thing.
Before you set it aside mark out your quarter points, with the seam being the starting point. This neckband has two seams because I didn’t have enough fabric to cut one piece, this method works if you add an extra half an inch to account for the second seam.
Construct the shirt. This is a raglan, so you sew the sleeves to the bodice first.
After you have the sleeves attached to the front and back bodices, line up the sides from the sleeve cuff to the hem and sew it together.
Take a tickle break.
Starting with the middle of the front and back, mark the quarter point on the neckline.
Attach the quarter points on the neckband to the quarter points on the neckline. If you have a neckband with one seam put that seam on the center back point, if you have two seams put them on the shoulder points.
So far so good. The next part is the intimidating part, and it’s really hard to photograph by myself (sorry). Remember to breathe and take it slow. You need to stretch the neckband between your quarter points so that it is the same length as the neckline, and pin it there. The first time I did it I had Nick put the pins in while I stretched it with both hands. When you let go the neckline will be rippled around your pins, that’s normal.
If you’re going to use a fabric tag to mark the back (a good idea for kids) now is a good time to add it. I just pin a scrap of contrasting color at the center back.
This is another of the intimidating parts, so take this slow. You stretch the neckband, the way you did when you pinned it, while you sew. Try not to stretch the shirt, only the band.
Once you’ve gotten it sewn on, flip it right side out and topstitch the seam down. This is optional, but it does add a more finished look to your clothes. You shouldn’t need to stretch the seam very much, if at all, when topstitching.
Somewhere in the middle of photographing the process I must have switched from the shirt to the gown, I’m not sure how that happened. But I love how the gown turned out; my mom says it’s so retro. I’m not a fan of raglans myself, but I love the soft colors. And unicorns are a big favorite in this house.
